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LONG GUN SECURITY VAULT SAFETY FIRST! ALWAYS UNLOAD FIREARMS BEFORE PLACING IN VAULT!
READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING
Tools
Required
- 2 Pair
Locking Pliers or C-Clamps
- 1/4” & 3/8” Drill
Bits
- 2 books (about 3/4” thick)
- Tape Measure
- Marking Pen
- Hacksaw
- 2" - 2 1/2" Hole
Saw or Jigsaw (for cutting bedliner only)
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- 2 each 9/16” Wrenches
- Allen Wrench (supplied)
- 7/16” Wrench
- Drill
- Masking Tape
- Another Person to
Help You
- Metal File
- Long bladed knife
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Step #1 Remove Bedliner (if equipped)
Step
#2 Locate & Mark
Location of Vault
Loosely
install the mounting bracket (48” long part with 18 holes)
on the Vault with a 1/4” bolt and nut on each end. Hold the
Vault in approximate location (use a helper) and mark the location
(on the
truck bed lip) at both ends with the marking pen. Make sure you have
enough clearance (front and rear) to easily access padlocks on both
ends of the Vault (recommend 4 inch minimum). The mounting bracket
allows three
different mounting heights (see illustration #1). Many short bed
trucks have clearance issues at the wheel well area if flush mounted;
use one
of the raised mounting heights on these models.
NOTE:
When used in the 1½ inch raised position, only one
row of holes in the bracket is used for mounting, the lower
holes are left
open.

Illustration #1
Step
#3 Drill Truck Bed Lip and Install Mounting Bracket
Clamp the mounting bracket
(in the position you chose in step #2) centered between the two marks
with C-Clamps or locking pliers, (see illustration
#2). The bracket should be 1/4" below the top of the bed rail for “flush” mounting.
Drill a 1/4” hole in one of the end holes of the mounting bracket.
Install a 1/4" x 1” bolt and nut in the hole and tighten.
Repeat for the other end. Remove clamps and repeat for the remaining
holes in the mounting bracket. Some trucks may require some of these
nuts to be installed from underneath the vehicle, or up to 2 (not side
by side) may be left out entirely with no real loss of security.

Illustration
#2 (Flush Mount)
Step
#4 Mark & Drill for
Mounting Posts
Tape the enclosed
drilling template (see instructions on template, cut as marked) in
location. Locate a flat area on truck bed within
the
grid lines to place the 3/8” bolts (2 each) for the lower mounting
posts. Punch holes (in the grid area) and mark the locations on the
truck bed with the marker, being careful to hold the marker level
and perpendicular to the template (see illus. #3). Measure the distance
from the template to the truck bed and record this length for later
use (see illustration #4). Remove the template carefully and put
aside
for later use. Drill two 3/8” holes in the locations you just
marked on the truck bed, being careful, as you break through, not
to go too deep and damage the outer panel.

Illustration #3

Illustration #4
BEDLINER NOTE: Replace the bedliner and place
the template back in its location, mark the bedliner in the same manner
as the truck bed. Using
a hole saw or jigsaw, cut at least a 2” diameter hole around
each mark. Some liners may also need trimming at the top corner of
the wheel “hump” if clearance is a problem.
Step
#5 Cut 3/8” Mounting
Bolts
Take the measurement
you recorded in Step #4, add 1” and round
to the next higher even inch.
Example: (Recorded Measurement)
2 ½” + 1” = 3 ½”,
round up to 4”.
Using a hacksaw,
this is the length you need to cut the 3/8” x
6” bolts (2 each). Cut the bolts to length and use the file
to clean up the threads on the bolts.
NOTE: If this
measurement is 5”,
the bolts will not have to be cut at all.
Step
#6 Spacer Selection
The
spacers are the cylindrical parts (2 each - 1” long and 4 each
- 2” long) in the hardware packet. Place these on the previously
cut (in Step #5) 3/8” bolts until there is 1” of thread
left showing on the bolt.
Example: Each 4” long bolt needs 3” total length of spacers
(1 each - 1” long and 1 each - 2” long/per bolt)
Step
#7 Drill Vault
Place
the Vault on its side, on a non-scratch surface with the
mounting holes facing up
(hinge side down). Place the template (turn it over
so the cut off section of the template will follow the base of the
Vault) in location on Vault and tape in place. Drill 3/8” holes
(2 each) in the center of the punched out holes in the lower section
of the template (see illustration #5).
Illustration #5
NOTE: Check to make sure you can install the
3/8” bolts (cut in
Step #5) in these two holes from the INSIDE of the box, if your bolts
are cut to 5” long or longer, you will have to “ream out” these
holes until your bolts will insert from the inside of the Vault.
Step
#8 Locate Mounting Holes
Crawl under your truck and
locate the 3/8” holes (2 each) you
drilled in the bed in Step #4. Remove any burrs.
NOTE: Some vehicles may have a dust shield in this area that must be
removed for access.
Step
#9 Install Vault
Take the enclosed tube of silicone sealant and place a circle of sealant
around all the mounting holes (9 pre-drilled and the two you just drilled)
on the Vault.
Using the 1/4” x 5/8” long bolts (9 each) and 1/4" locking
nuts, hold the Vault body in position (use a helper) and install the
bolts (nut OUTSIDE the Vault) through the Vault body and mounting bracket.
Install 1/4" nuts, hand tightened only.
Place the 3/8” bolts (2 each) into the lower mounting holes from
the inside of the box. Place a generous quantity of sealant around these
holes. Slide the spacers (from Step #6) onto the bolts and then a large
fender washer on each. Place both these into the holes drilled in the
truck bed (see illustration #6). If the holes do not line up well, enlarge
the holes in the truck bed to ½” Diameter.
While your
helper holds the 3/8” bolts inside the Vault, crawl
under the truck and install a large fender washer and 3/8” locking
nut on each bolt, tighten securely. Reinstall any removed dust shields,
etc. Securely tighten remaining bolts on
the mounting bracket. These nuts are sometimes problematical to reach
and may require a longer wrench or someone
with small arms to hold them.

Illustration #6

Illustration #7
Step
#10 Install 3” x 12” x 2” Foam “Compression
Blocks” (6 each included)
Slide one of the Depth Blocks
(4” x 4¾” x 6¾”)
in place at the butt end (see illustration #7) of the Vault, the 4¾” dimension
squeezes tightly into place widthwise. Place it so it contacts (lightly)
the ¼” thick pad pre-installed in the butt end of the Vault.
This Depth Block is being used only as a locator at this time. Place
two of the 3” x 12” x 2” Compression Blocks in position
(note that these Blocks have a small 45 degree cut that goes to the center
of the Vault), lightly touching the Depth Block. Trim the bottom of the
Blocks until the top edge is 1/4" below the level of the Vault body.
Cut out very small pieces from the backs of the Blocks where they contact
any bolt heads, so that they will lay flat.
The next two Compression Blocks
should be installed where they will clamp the forend of your firearm
(28” from the butt end of the
Vault works well for most standard length long guns). These two Blocks
will also have to be shortened by cutting off the lower part of the block.
Cut out very small pieces of the pads where they contact any bolt heads,
so that they will lay flat against the sides.
NOTE: There are 2 additional blocks included for any unusual requirements.
If you carry different firearms (some extra long or short), you may need
to add another set of blocks at the forend or you can double up the clamping
force by placing 4 blocks instead of 2 at the butt stock end, etc.
Lay the blocks on a disposable surface. Using the 3M spray adhesive
(shake well) spray a full, wet coat on the backs of each Block where
they contact the Vault body. Let the adhesive dry for 10 minutes (time
it). Carefully place the Blocks in position and press firmly in place.
Slide a 3/4” thick book down between the Blocks (to hold pressure
until cured) and allow to cure at least 12 hours before use. Remove
the books and the Depth Block after the adhesive is cured.
Step
#11 Install “Depth
Blocks”
Using your most common long
gun, remove any protruding magazines, then unload and safety check
it. Slide it carefully between the Compression
Blocks, sights on the bottom. The butt plate should contact the 1/4” thick
pad at the large end of the Vault. Watch for contact on scopes, etc.
The entire firearm should be 1/2”-3/4” below the closed lid
surface.
The Depth Blocks
only stop the firearm from dropping to the bottom of the Vault during
transit. The butt end Block goes in the area you removed it from earlier,
measure the length from the bottom of the Vault up to the comb of
the firearm. Note that the Depth Blocks have an angled
cut on the bottom, to match the bottom of the Vault. Cut the top of the Block
(use a long, sharp knife) to the length you just measured. Slide the Block
down into position in the Vault and recheck the firearm height, trim as needed.
The Block at the barrel end
can be installed anywhere along the barrel, just trim to fit If you
carry several different firearms you may want
to cut several “slices” from the blocks and stack them as
needed for firearm height adjustment.
To prevent
damage, always check to make sure the firearm is not touching the
bottom of the Vault.
Step
#12 Install
Dehumidifier
Remove the wrapper from the
Hydrosorbant® Dehumidifier and place
in the bottom of the box. Read the instructions on the dehumidifier label
for proper use. A piece of Velcro® attached to the bottom will keep
it from bouncing around on rough roads.
Step
#13 Install Padlocks
Place the padlocks (2 each) in the cable lanyards. Close the lid (you
will have to push down hard as you place the locks) and install the padlocks
(see illustration #8). Note that the padlocks are a very close, tight
fit. You will probably have some difficulty installing them until you
practice a few times and the lid gasket conforms to the Vault. This tight
fit is a necessity for security and proper sealing.

Illustration # 8
Step #14 Join the National Rifle Association
If you enjoy
your firearms and want this and future generations to have this right
protected, please fill out and return the enclosed N.R.A.
membership card. Or click
here to join over the Internet.

NOTE:
The powder coating on this Vault is a high quality polyester finish.
Scratches can be touched
up with any good semi-gloss enamel paint. If
your Vault will experience very rough treatment (lots of scratches
and abrasions) we recommend, before installation, that the exposed
sides
and top be coated with a spray on, rubberized bedliner. Dupli-Color™ “Truck
Bed Coating” in black color, is an excellent choice (sold at most
auto parts stores for around $7.00 per aerosol can, one can is sufficient). Magazines
and steel accessories may be held to the sides or bottom of the vault
with magnets (“Alnico” or Ceramic are the best
choice).
Thank you for purchasing our product, we also manufacture many other
accessory items for vehicles and firearms, our complete product line
can be viewed at www.toughstuffproducts.com.
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