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LONG GUN SECURITY VAULT

SAFETY FIRST! ALWAYS UNLOAD FIREARMS BEFORE PLACING IN VAULT!
READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING

Tools Required

  • 2 Pair Locking Pliers or C-Clamps
  • 1/4” & 3/8” Drill Bits
  • 2 books (about 3/4” thick)
  • Tape Measure
  • Marking Pen
  • Hacksaw
  • 2" - 2 1/2" Hole Saw or Jigsaw (for cutting bedliner only)

 

  • 2 each 9/16” Wrenches
  • Allen Wrench (supplied)
  • 7/16” Wrench
  • Drill
  • Masking Tape
  • Another Person to Help You
  • Metal File
  • Long bladed knife

 

 


Step #1 Remove Bedliner (if equipped)

 

Step #2 Locate & Mark Location of Vault

Loosely install the mounting bracket (48” long part with 18 holes) on the Vault with a 1/4” bolt and nut on each end. Hold the Vault in approximate location (use a helper) and mark the location (on the truck bed lip) at both ends with the marking pen. Make sure you have enough clearance (front and rear) to easily access padlocks on both ends of the Vault (recommend 4 inch minimum). The mounting bracket allows three different mounting heights (see illustration #1). Many short bed trucks have clearance issues at the wheel well area if flush mounted; use one of the raised mounting heights on these models.

NOTE: When used in the 1½ inch raised position, only one row of holes in the bracket is used for mounting, the lower holes are left open.


Illustration #1

 

Step #3 Drill Truck Bed Lip and Install Mounting Bracket

Clamp the mounting bracket (in the position you chose in step #2) centered between the two marks with C-Clamps or locking pliers, (see illustration #2). The bracket should be 1/4" below the top of the bed rail for “flush” mounting. Drill a 1/4” hole in one of the end holes of the mounting bracket. Install a 1/4" x 1” bolt and nut in the hole and tighten. Repeat for the other end. Remove clamps and repeat for the remaining holes in the mounting bracket. Some trucks may require some of these nuts to be installed from underneath the vehicle, or up to 2 (not side by side) may be left out entirely with no real loss of security.



Illustration #2 (Flush Mount)

Step #4 Mark & Drill for Mounting Posts

Tape the enclosed drilling template (see instructions on template, cut as marked) in location. Locate a flat area on truck bed within the grid lines to place the 3/8” bolts (2 each) for the lower mounting posts. Punch holes (in the grid area) and mark the locations on the truck bed with the marker, being careful to hold the marker level and perpendicular to the template (see illus. #3). Measure the distance from the template to the truck bed and record this length for later use (see illustration #4). Remove the template carefully and put aside for later use. Drill two 3/8” holes in the locations you just marked on the truck bed, being careful, as you break through, not to go too deep and damage the outer panel.


Illustration #3


Illustration #4


BEDLINER NOTE: Replace the bedliner and place the template back in its location, mark the bedliner in the same manner as the truck bed. Using a hole saw or jigsaw, cut at least a 2” diameter hole around each mark. Some liners may also need trimming at the top corner of the wheel “hump” if clearance is a problem.

 

Step #5 Cut 3/8” Mounting Bolts

Take the measurement you recorded in Step #4, add 1” and round to the next higher even inch.

Example: (Recorded Measurement) 2 ½” + 1” = 3 ½”, round up to 4”.

Using a hacksaw, this is the length you need to cut the 3/8” x 6” bolts (2 each). Cut the bolts to length and use the file to clean up the threads on the bolts.

NOTE: If this measurement is 5”, the bolts will not have to be cut at all.

 

Step #6 Spacer Selection

The spacers are the cylindrical parts (2 each - 1” long and 4 each - 2” long) in the hardware packet. Place these on the previously cut (in Step #5) 3/8” bolts until there is 1” of thread left showing on the bolt.
Example: Each 4” long bolt needs 3” total length of spacers (1 each - 1” long and 1 each - 2” long/per bolt)

 

Step #7 Drill Vault

Place the Vault on its side, on a non-scratch surface with the mounting holes facing up (hinge side down). Place the template (turn it over so the cut off section of the template will follow the base of the Vault) in location on Vault and tape in place. Drill 3/8” holes (2 each) in the center of the punched out holes in the lower section of the template (see illustration #5).


Illustration #5


NOTE: Check to make sure you can install the 3/8” bolts (cut in Step #5) in these two holes from the INSIDE of the box, if your bolts are cut to 5” long or longer, you will have to “ream out” these holes until your bolts will insert from the inside of the Vault.

 

Step #8 Locate Mounting Holes

Crawl under your truck and locate the 3/8” holes (2 each) you drilled in the bed in Step #4. Remove any burrs.
NOTE: Some vehicles may have a dust shield in this area that must be removed for access.

 

Step #9 Install Vault

Take the enclosed tube of silicone sealant and place a circle of sealant around all the mounting holes (9 pre-drilled and the two you just drilled) on the Vault.

Using the 1/4” x 5/8” long bolts (9 each) and 1/4" locking nuts, hold the Vault body in position (use a helper) and install the bolts (nut OUTSIDE the Vault) through the Vault body and mounting bracket. Install 1/4" nuts, hand tightened only.

Place the 3/8” bolts (2 each) into the lower mounting holes from the inside of the box. Place a generous quantity of sealant around these holes. Slide the spacers (from Step #6) onto the bolts and then a large fender washer on each. Place both these into the holes drilled in the truck bed (see illustration #6). If the holes do not line up well, enlarge the holes in the truck bed to ½” Diameter.

While your helper holds the 3/8” bolts inside the Vault, crawl under the truck and install a large fender washer and 3/8” locking nut on each bolt, tighten securely. Reinstall any removed dust shields, etc. Securely tighten remaining bolts on the mounting bracket. These nuts are sometimes problematical to reach and may require a longer wrench or someone with small arms to hold them.

 


Illustration #6

 


Illustration #7

 

Step #10 Install 3” x 12” x 2” Foam “Compression Blocks” (6 each included)

Slide one of the Depth Blocks (4” x 4¾” x 6¾”) in place at the butt end (see illustration #7) of the Vault, the 4¾” dimension squeezes tightly into place widthwise. Place it so it contacts (lightly) the ¼” thick pad pre-installed in the butt end of the Vault. This Depth Block is being used only as a locator at this time. Place two of the 3” x 12” x 2” Compression Blocks in position (note that these Blocks have a small 45 degree cut that goes to the center of the Vault), lightly touching the Depth Block. Trim the bottom of the Blocks until the top edge is 1/4" below the level of the Vault body. Cut out very small pieces from the backs of the Blocks where they contact any bolt heads, so that they will lay flat.

The next two Compression Blocks should be installed where they will clamp the forend of your firearm (28” from the butt end of the Vault works well for most standard length long guns). These two Blocks will also have to be shortened by cutting off the lower part of the block. Cut out very small pieces of the pads where they contact any bolt heads, so that they will lay flat against the sides.

NOTE: There are 2 additional blocks included for any unusual requirements. If you carry different firearms (some extra long or short), you may need to add another set of blocks at the forend or you can double up the clamping force by placing 4 blocks instead of 2 at the butt stock end, etc.

Lay the blocks on a disposable surface. Using the 3M spray adhesive (shake well) spray a full, wet coat on the backs of each Block where they contact the Vault body. Let the adhesive dry for 10 minutes (time it). Carefully place the Blocks in position and press firmly in place. Slide a 3/4” thick book down between the Blocks (to hold pressure until cured) and allow to cure at least 12 hours before use. Remove the books and the Depth Block after the adhesive is cured.

 

Step #11 Install “Depth Blocks”

Using your most common long gun, remove any protruding magazines, then unload and safety check it. Slide it carefully between the Compression Blocks, sights on the bottom. The butt plate should contact the 1/4” thick pad at the large end of the Vault. Watch for contact on scopes, etc. The entire firearm should be 1/2”-3/4” below the closed lid surface.

The Depth Blocks only stop the firearm from dropping to the bottom of the Vault during transit. The butt end Block goes in the area you removed it from earlier, measure the length from the bottom of the Vault up to the comb of the firearm. Note that the Depth Blocks have an angled cut on the bottom, to match the bottom of the Vault. Cut the top of the Block (use a long, sharp knife) to the length you just measured. Slide the Block down into position in the Vault and recheck the firearm height, trim as needed.

The Block at the barrel end can be installed anywhere along the barrel, just trim to fit If you carry several different firearms you may want to cut several “slices” from the blocks and stack them as needed for firearm height adjustment.

To prevent damage, always check to make sure the firearm is not touching the bottom of the Vault.

 

Step #12 Install Dehumidifier

Remove the wrapper from the Hydrosorbant® Dehumidifier and place in the bottom of the box. Read the instructions on the dehumidifier label for proper use. A piece of Velcro® attached to the bottom will keep it from bouncing around on rough roads.

 

Step #13 Install Padlocks

Place the padlocks (2 each) in the cable lanyards. Close the lid (you will have to push down hard as you place the locks) and install the padlocks (see illustration #8). Note that the padlocks are a very close, tight fit. You will probably have some difficulty installing them until you practice a few times and the lid gasket conforms to the Vault. This tight fit is a necessity for security and proper sealing.



Illustration # 8


Step #14 Join the National Rifle Association

If you enjoy your firearms and want this and future generations to have this right protected, please fill out and return the enclosed N.R.A. membership card. Or click here to join over the Internet.

Join NRA

 

NOTE: The powder coating on this Vault is a high quality polyester finish. Scratches can be touched up with any good semi-gloss enamel paint. If your Vault will experience very rough treatment (lots of scratches and abrasions) we recommend, before installation, that the exposed sides and top be coated with a spray on, rubberized bedliner. Dupli-Color™ “Truck Bed Coating” in black color, is an excellent choice (sold at most auto parts stores for around $7.00 per aerosol can, one can is sufficient). Magazines and steel accessories may be held to the sides or bottom of the vault with magnets (“Alnico” or Ceramic are the best choice).

 

 

Thank you for purchasing our product, we also manufacture many other accessory items for vehicles and firearms, our complete product line can be viewed at www.toughstuffproducts.com.


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©2003-2007 Tough Stuff Products, Inc. All rights reserved. Firearms and vehicles are shown for illustration purposes only. G.M., Ford and Dodge are trademarks of their respective companies and have no affiliation with Tough Stuff Products, Inc. Firearm Security Vaults; Long Gun Security Vault; Handgun Security Vault are trademarks of Tough Stuff Products, Inc. All rights reserved.